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Crown Daisy Doenjang-guk: A Light Summer Soup With a Green Herbal Kick

Crown Daisy Doenjang-guk: A Light Summer Soup With a Green Herbal Kick

I am a fiend for soup and stews. I have a theory that there are two types of people in this world: those who eat ramen for the noodles and those who eat ramen for the broth. I fall into the latter category. I think 

Cherry Chocolate Granola, Cherry Simple Syrup and Cherry Liqueur

Cherry Chocolate Granola, Cherry Simple Syrup and Cherry Liqueur

Lately this place has been like Grand Central Station for cherries, berries and cream, and I’m afraid it’s only going to get worse. Standing over the stove in summer is not one of my favorite things to do, and with all of those fleeting summer 

Tomato Garlic Scapes Tart and Summer on the Farm

Tomato Garlic Scapes Tart and Summer on the Farm

 

Tomato garlic scapes summer tart.

When I was 21, the poet I was working for at the time graciously arranged for me to spend a portion of the summer at a writer’s residency on a small organic farm in Wisconsin. It was late June, the heat of summer, and we spent the mornings picking raspberries, grubbing apple trees and staking tomato plants as they grew heavy with big red globes that were hot to the touch in the mid-morning sun. In the afternoons, we would take shelter in the dimly lit attic apartment in the barn out behind the house to comb through shelves full of ancient paperbacks, crack open a bottle of wine and take a swing at getting some writing done.

Tomato garlic scapes summer tart.

Tomato garlic scapes summer tart.

Before we headed out to the barn, we would stop by the house to grab a loaf of freshly baked bread, a slab of homemade butter, a hunk of local Wisconsin white cheddar and as many little red and orange and green tomatoes as we could carry. On our way out, we would grab a handful of basil from the kitchen garden.

Ever since then, the most satisfying summer lunch I can think of is homemade bread, a bit of cheese and fresh tomatoes.

Garlic scapes have come into season. The garlic won’t be ready for another couple of months, but the scapes are cut off now, in late spring to early summer, to allow the plant to focus on growing the bulb instead of flowering. I had never seen garlic scapes until I came to Korea and still default to their Korean name at times, since I only learned that they were called scapes years after I’d become aware of them in Korean. They’re kind of crazy looking, something like a hybrid between a really long green bean and a spring onion gone mad. They taste mildly of garlic, almost like spring onions or scallions, but they have a surprising heat to them that mellows significantly when they are cooked.

Tomato garlic scapes summer tart.

Tomato garlic scapes summer tart.

Koreans often eat them raw, tossed in an even more spicy paste made from gochujang (fermented red pepper paste), red pepper powder, soy sauce, sesame oil and corn syrup, but with the turn of the weather last week toward summer, I was hankering for something light, with cheese and tomatoes.

Tomato garlic scapes summer tart.

Tomato garlic scapes summer tart.

That summer on the farm, I was still a vegetarian, and I still usually to revert back to flexitarian tendencies during the summer, when meat often feels too heavy. This tart is nice, because it fills you up without bogging you down. The more substantial ingredients — heavy cream, milk, eggs and Gruyere — are balanced with minced garlic scapes incorporated into the filling. Cherry tomatoes and garlic scape stalks dotted across the top of the tart help to lighten it up.

Tomato garlic scapes summer tart.

I’ve had rye bread, leftover Gruyere and tomatoes for lunch every day so far this week, but this tart was a nice variation on the memory of that hot Wisconsin summer on the farm, with the scapes in place of the basil adding a little Korean twist.

Continue reading Tomato Garlic Scapes Tart and Summer on the Farm

The Wrong Place at the Wrong Time

The Wrong Place at the Wrong Time

It’s about 6:30am. I’m up earlier than usual. In a little while, I’ll have to set the laptop aside and make breakfast, get today’s bread (a second attempt at sourdough rye, which I am determined to perfect) in the oven after its all-night rise. But 

Gamseong Butcher’s and Yangjae Flower Market

Gamseong Butcher’s and Yangjae Flower Market

Last week, my friend and I tried to eat steak. Well, we did eat steak, in fact. But it somehow still felt like a failure. I’d invited her around my way for dry aged meat and then couldn’t find the note I’d scribbled down about